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Expedition in Nepal

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Trip Duration:

45 Days

Trip Grade:

Moderate

Altitude:

8157m

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peak-climb

Dhaulagiri Expedition in Nepal (45) Days

Trip Introduction

Dhaulaghiri was climbed first in 1960 by an international team under the leadership of Max Eiselin, Lucerne. Since I happen to know some of the team members personally, my description concentrates mainly on this ascent. But in this Overview chapter, I try to inform about the present situation.

 

Dhavali giri is Sanskrit and means white mountain. It is located in the western central part of Nepal. On the altitude scale it is number 7 and it is almost the last 8000er to be conquered. The way of the first ascent is the normal route taken today. There are however two main possibilities to reach the base camp. Both ways start from the south at the small town of Beni (860 m) which can be approached by bus from Pokhara and Kathmandu.

 

The eastern valley is called Kali Gandaki and was chosen by the French expedition in 1950. Today, there is even an airport at Jomsom (2700 m) in this valley. On the west side of this valley is Dhaulagiri and on the eastern side lies Annapurna. The alternative route is the Mayanghdi valley, which was discovered by a Swiss expedition one year later. Today there are commercial trekking tours that climb on one side, reach the base camp and come back through the opposite valley. But there are also organized tours that try to scale the summit. Here is a brief description of such a tour that lasts ca. 45 days and costs around $ 7000, including the flight to Nepal and the fee to the summit.

 

Recon with a 10 days climb from Beni through Mayanghdi Khola to the BC on the north side at 4650 m. Food and lodging in tents are provided by the organizer. Porters are included in the price. The participants will spend 30 days at and above base camp. Food will be supplied at BC, but the ascent of the NE-spur is left to the team member, without guides and at their own risk. 2-men tents are provided, but must be carried and to four sites on the spur and are erected by the members. Some fixed ropes are already there or will be installed by the organization. Artificial oxygen is proved at BC in the case of an emergency.The route between the last camp and the summit does not follow the spur and the French ridge, as climbed in 1960, but follows the ice field that heads directly to the summit and was abandoned by the first ascent because of too much snow.

 

The way back to Beni may lead over the French-Col and Ambush Pass (Thapa Pass). Then follows theKali Gandaki trail to the village of Tuktsche (2600 m). Some organizations walk back to Beni whereas others reach the airport at Jomsom (2700 m).

Itinerary details 1:

Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.

Day 02: 03: Preparing Expedition & Briefing

Day 04: Drive by private  Bus  and Beni Camp

Day 05:  Beni - Tatopani

Day 06: Tatopani - Ghasa

Day 08: Larjung - Marpha

Day 09:Marpha - Yak Khark

Day 10: Yak Khark - Dhaulagiri Base Camp

Day 11 - 37: Climbing Period of Dhaulagiri 8167m.

Day 38: Prepared for coming back

Day 39: Dhaulagiri Base camp - Yak Khark

Day 40: Yak Khark - Jomsom

Day 41: Jomsom - Pokhara

Day 42: Pokhara - Kathmandu

Day 43 - 44: Kathmandu

Day 45: Departure, Transfer to Airport flight onward.

 

Itinerary details 2

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.

Day 02 - 03: Preparing Expedition & Briefing

Day 03: Drive by Bus to Beni, Camp

Day 04: Beni - Babichaur - Camp

Day 05: Babichaur - Darban - Camp

Day 06: Darbang - Dharapani - Camp

Day 07: Dharapani - Muri - Camp

Day 08: Muri - Bagar - Camp

Day 09: Bagar - Dovan - Camp

Day 10: Dovan -Italian Base Camp - Camp

Day 11: Italian BC - Dhaulagiri Base camp - Camp

Day 12 -37: Climbing period Dhaulagiri 8167m.

Day 38: Prepared for coming back

Day 39: Dhaulagiri Base camp - Yak Khark

Day 40: Yak Khark - Jomsom

Day 41: Jomsom - Pokhara

Day 42: Pokhara - Kathmandu

Day 43-44: Kathmandu

Day 45: Departure, Transfer to Airport flight onward.

Prices:

Cost includes:

  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance & insurance for base camp staff ( sirdar, cook, kitchen boy and liaison officer )
  • Food and fuel at the base camp
  • All camping equipment at the base camp such as, member tent, dining tent, kitchen tent, chairs, tables.
  • Porters to carry loads from Dhaulagiri - base camp
  • Royalty and peak permit of  Dhaulagiri
  • Airport arrival and departure
  • land transportation from Kathmandu
  • Accommodation at 3 and 4 star hotels in Kathmandu before and after the expedition on BB plan.

Cost does not include: 

  • High altitude food and fuel above base camp.
  • Climbing equipment, tents and personal equipment above base camp
  • Personal accident insurance and emergency rescue operation
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